It’s a cold January afternoon as I stand at the top of the Super Venosc piste in the French ski resort of Les 2 Alpes. The snow is crisp, and the skies are a perfect blue: it’s ideal for a day on the slopes, but the skiers and snowboarders gathered on this 2000-metre peak are giving me quizzical looks.
And why not? Not only am I in a group of runners gathering to participate in a trail race on snow, but I’m the only one wearing shorts!
Standing in the sun, waiting for the start of one of the most challenging marathons I’ll ever take on, it’s warm, but in our minds is the thought that before we finish our 42 kilometres, the warming sun will have set, darkness will have fallen and the temperature, taking into account windchill, will have plunged to -14°C.
But that’s for later. Right now, I’m gazing across the magnificent snow-capped French Alps, completed by the gentle white dome of Mont Blanc in the distance, waiting with 150 others to start an epic tour of the mountain.
This is the 11th edition of Les Lumières de la Muzelle, a trail race in the French ski resort of Les 2 Alpes, that takes place completely on snow.
With options for 10km, half-marathon and full marathon distances, the challenging event has so established itself in the winter calendar that it attracts athletes from across Europe, all keen to test their mettle on this unforgiving course.
The starts were staggered, with the longer races setting off first. So, while most skiers were hauling themselves back onto the slopes after lengthy lunches, we were gathering at the top of the Vallée Blanche sector at 2050m.
“Trois, Deux, Un!” And I was off, immediately feeling the shock impact of the high altitude on my gasping lungs that had started at sea level yesterday morning.
The first ten kilometres were mostly downhill, steeply at first. Running downhill through loose snow is an art. Each step was a test of agility, as the powdery snow was unpredictable and required split-second decisions and constant micro-adjustments as we carved our way down the mountain.
After the adrenaline-fueled descent, during which I saw several runners sink to their knees in snow as they wavered to the edge of the trail, the race transitioned onto a firmer, more reliable path. It took us for the first time across the icy and hard-packed pistes, where a focus on keeping your grip was essential.
Running along the edge of the piste into resort, I realised that while a ‘blue’ slope might seem gentle for skiers, it’s still quad-crushingly steep when you’re running down on foot. The course looped into a hiking trail through the woods on a path that was solid underfoot, but frequently crossed by streams that turned whole sections into pure ice.
And then, the climb! The long traverse gradually turned upwards, taking us up steep and winding trails, surrounded by towering trees and the quiet beauty of the winter forest.
The marathon distance race took us up this 325-metre climb three times. The first ascent was in the light of day and after a good taper, my legs felt fresh and strong and I gained several places.
The perfect rose pink sunset that greeted the next lap couldn’t distract me from my freezing fingers. My breath was visible in the cold air and, second time around, the climb became much more a test of endurance and perseverance.
Night had fallen by the time I reached the top and turned for my final lap. Now fully covered under jacket and buff, with headtorch lit, the trail was noticably busier as the half-marathon runners joined the route.
The cascade of light as runners snaked their way down the mountain was an impressive site. Laurent Sabot, from Les 2 Alpes Trail, told me later that friends had been admiring the impressive sight from neighbouring Alpe d’Huez, on the opposite side of the valley.
The third ascent was hardest. With all the extra runners, the narrow path meant the going was slow, and after two laps already in my legs, the thought of summoning up the extra effort to overtake was not an option.
Almost in ‘ultra shuffle’ mode now, I kept moving forward until the twinkling lights of the village came into view for the final time. With my eye on a good age group finish, I pushed as hard as I could down the piste, now coated with an extra layer of sugary snow created by the snow cannons firing around us.
Cruelly, after forty kilometres of punishment, there was one final seemingly endless 120-metre climb to conquer before the last push to the finish. But the feeling of satisfaction as I crossed the line in just over five hours was worth it all.
The first home were Mathieu Blanchard (2nd UTMB 2022) and Yannick Noël (3rd TDS 2023). The good friends, both from Les 2 Alpes, crossed the line hand-in-hand in just three hours and 25 minutes.
When ultra runners with a pedigree as good as this are choosing Les Lumières de la Muzelle for their winter training, whether you’re planning a spring or summer ultra, or you simply like a different challenge, you can be sure that this is a perfect winter race.
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Find out more at www.leslumieresdelamuzelle.com. Iain travelled by train to Les 2 Alpes and stayed at the Base Camp Lodge (dorms from €35, doubles from €95). Iain wore Brooks Cascadia trail shoes with custom insoles from Profeet.